Calicoan Island

Few places in the Philippines can rival the beauty of Samar’s dramatic landscapes. Calicoan island is located on the tip of Guiuan, Eastern Samar, and is dubbed the “Surfing capital of Visayas”.

Large waves from the Pacific Ocean lures surfers and adventurers alike, and curiously enough, religious devotees of St. Anthony of Padua. The barrio of Sulangan has a church that is said to be miraculous, and special trips from Tacloban City via vans (travel time around 4 hours) allow people to hear the pilgrim mass around mid-morning.

Seafood is cheap and plentiful at the town market of Guiuan. For sand and surf enthusiasts, white sand beaches circle the coast while comfortable accommodations are available both in the town proper and in Calicoan Island.

This place is particularly memorable for me because the entire family used to travel and stay a few days in Guiuan during summers.

Where to stay: If you favor 4-star accommodations (costing you about Php 14,500 for an overnight stay for two), the fabulous Surf Camp is for you. Amenities include an infinity pool, an Indonesian-style villa with interioir decoration, a restaurant, viewing deck with an awesome view of the Pacific.

Those with more modest pockets can stay at Calicoan Villa- just beside Surf Camp. A cottage with no airconditioning costs somewhere between Php1,500-2,500. 30 minutes away in the town proper are hostels that cost around Php600 for overnight twin accommodations.

Surf Camp, Guiuan

Marabut, Samar

The Beginning...

5/10/08


She was as coy as a veiled bride. Hidden and reclusive, revealing only bits of her- just enough to entice, yet never betraying the mystery that surrounds her.

The sun had almost reached its zenith, and the rays stung my skin. I was traveling alone. The rusting vehicle bound for Guiuan was filled to the brim, and I was squeezed in a corner right above the sacks of dried coconut. I felt nauseous, and every time the bus would suddenly stop to let passengers in, I’d take deep breaths willing myself not to vomit.

But I consoled myself each time I’d haphazardly poke my head out the window (amidst the curious glances of other passengers) - the views were worth it. The landscape of karst formations, thickly-wooded mountains, mangrove forests, coastlines, and swamp lands were interrupted only by the seemingly endless, winding, and frequently dusty highway.

After hours of traversing the road which snaked through Samar’s mountains, the canopy of trees suddenly parted to reveal her splendor: white sand beaches with waters that sparkled with an emerald brilliance. I held my breath.

It was not long before I found myself walking barefoot on the sand, tickled by tiny crabs that walk their funny way. The sun’s disk slowly sank in the horizon, coloring the sky a bright pink. Waters around me shimmered and beckoned for me to take a dip.

As I waded into the deeper waters, the warm tide embraces me slowly like a lover’s caress. I am now one with the emerald sea, and she cradles me in her arms as dusk turned to night.